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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, situated high among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this gastronomic achievement.